Day Trip Up North

Back in August, Gearoid and I bought some cheap train day tickets which allowed us to go anywhere in the country by train for one low price. This past weekend, we cashed in our last tickets and decided to go as far away as possible- up north.

Our first stop was Groningen city http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Groningen_(city), the largest city in the north as well as a big college town. It was a really nice city and we were lucky that the weather was gorgeous and allowed us to walk around; although, we had to be careful of bike traffic.  The Netherlands is overall very bike friendly but Groningen is even more so because it is slowly eliminating roads in which cars can make their way into the city. Many times we almost got run over or we stopped a cyclist mid-ride by wandering into their way.

It being Saturday, it was market day and we walked through the stalls in the crowded city center. We found the Martini tower/church and wandered into an open part to take a peek. We were surprised to see that the beautiful interior was hosting a slew of local real estate agents. Apparently, in order to afford the cost of upkeep for the church, part of it is rented out like a convention center for various events. It was a little off-putting but understandable as I can only imagine what it costs to keep up a church in a largely non-religious country.  After the church, we made our way to the University and then wandered the streets looking in various shops. We were both excited by the 50 cent English paperback novels we found as well as a store whose name consists of Dutch people’s two favorite words “Leuk and Lekker.” In this store, Gearoid found some Coleman’s mustard powder (he didn’t want to wait until we’re in Dublin in two weeks to buy it there) and I got some more fleur de sel for my salted caramels. Overall, it was a very nice and fruitful trip.

Martini Tower and Market

Martini Tower

University- look at all of those bikes!

Train Station

After Groningen, we hopped on the train and headed even further north to Harlingen (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Harlingen,_Netherlands), a cute seaside town that is in the province of Friesland. Friesland is an interesting province because the people there insist on having their own language- West Frisian- although, they still speak Dutch and thankfully English. We spent a couple of hours walking around Harlingen and pretending on eventually moving there (i.e. Me: That house is for sale. I want it. Can you commute to work? G: Over 6 hours a day on the train- I think not. Me: I guess when I sell my bestselling novel I’ll buy this house and get you an apartment in Nijmegen. G: Sure, that will happen.) However, after walking into a café and having the server address me in West Frisian I began to question the plan to move somewhere with another language. I mean, Dutch is difficult enough. Whether we move there or not, it was absolutely gorgeous. The canals were lined with beautiful boats and the buildings seemed to have survived WWII and didn’t have any 1960s reconstruction. In competition with the sunset for the best part of Harlingen, is the suikerbrood we bought. Friesland is known for its sugar bread and I have to say it was so delicious.

After the sunset, Gearoid and I returned to the train and made the 3 hour journey home. Luckily we both had books and suikerbrood to entertain us. 

The boy who stuck his finger in the dike and saved everyone! The Dutch actually think this story is ridiculous.

One of the reasons we chose Harlingen was because it was the only seaside town up north that had a train station. Behind the building on the left, there was view of the town that looked like a ship was parked in the middle of it. Gearoid assured me several times after I commented several times that there was ship parked in the middle of the city that it must be on a canal. Sorry we didn't get a good picture of it but I think the sunset pictures make up for it. 

Unfortunately the suikerbrood only lasted a couple of days in our house and I didn't pause from enjoying it to get a good picture. This picture in no way conveys the deliciousness and enjoyment contained in its sugary goodness. 

Using the Language

I am about 8 months into my Dutch language lessons and I still have a long way to go. I would have to say that learning Dutch is similar to my marathon training. I can run 10 miles much easier than I could 8 months ago but the thought of running 26.2 miles is still very overwhelming.  A full on Dutch conversation outside of the safety of my classroom (and even scarier- over the phone!) terrifies me. However, hearing me speak Dutch 8 months ago is a completely different experience than it is now. Now people understand me or at least pretend convincingly that they do.

I’m not without my mistakes though and have recently proven that I can embarrass myself quite well.

I won’t go into the Dutch specifics but will give you the English version summaries of what has happened.

1)      My landlady asked me if I was ready to go to Ikea with her. My response was that I was ready but apparently my word choice indicated that I was “sexually ready”. My fifty-something year old landlady and the teenage boys working in her garden found that pretty amusing.

2)      We recently learned some new verbs and were using them in class. I said “I believe (classmate’s name) can dance.” My teacher and a fellow student started cracking up and asked if I really “believed” this. Yes, I stringently argued, “I believe (classmate’s name) can dance.” The classmate who I believed could dance smiled at me. I figured out a week later when reviewing vocabulary that apparently “I promised (classmate’s name) could dance.”

3)      Schoon means clean and schoen means shoe.  Maker means maker. My language coach differentiated the two for me last week when working on my pronunciation of the sch sound (although I can’t hear it, apparently it sounds completely different than how I say it). After realizing the difference in the words I commented “Oh, that makes sense. I was wondering why Nijmegen had so many shoemakers.” Nijmegen instead has a lot of schoonmakers (cleaners).

4)      I don’t even remember what word I was asking my Dutch friend the meaning of. However, when I said it her eyes widened and she asked me to repeat myself and give her the English meaning of the word I was trying to say. She laughed and gave me the correct pronunciation and said the first word I said was the Dutch word for sperm. This brings up the question of whether my Dutch thoughts automatically go in the gutter or if a large percentage of their words have promiscuous meanings.

These are the most amusing anecdotes that have happened lately. On a daily basis though I embarrass myself as I juggle the rules of inversion * (see footnote), try to use the right verb tense and vocabulary when constructing a sentence, and attempt to say whatever I’m trying to say at a normal adult speed when making conversation. My mind has developed a slower less accurate version of Google translate. I am excellent when talking about the weather but more meaningful conversations contain a new language coined by another American called “nengels”- half nederlands and half English. I have developed a habit of starting a sentence in Dutch and finishing it English. Many people I know are determined to speak Dutch with me. However, although I’ve never considered myself particularly charming (all three of my brothers inherited that trait), I manage to seduce my acquaintances into English conversations. It starts with a grammatical question that is too difficult to explain/understand in Dutch but ends with anecdotes in English about their children, vacations, recipes, etc. Even my language buddy with who I meet with once a week to specifically speak Dutch, can’t resist my English language charms. I don’t mean to do it because I don’t want to hurt my language acquisition but I guess I want more meaningful conversations in my life.

Speaking of my language buddy, he stopped our Dutch conversation mid-stream and interrupted me in English. “We have to work on your pronunciation. It is horrible.” Pause “You don’t mind that I said that, do you?” Of course not- I embarrass myself enough with my word choices. I don’t need to do it as well with horrible pronunciation.

*The Dutch language includes all kinds of inversion when constructing sentences. There are 101 different situations that dictate whether the verb comes before the subject or if the verb is at the end of the sentence. It literally gives me a headache and on two occasions brought me to tears. 

It's kermis time!

Gearoid and I had planned to have a quiet Saturday night. He had run 20 miles and had a paper to finish and I was resting up for my own 20 mile run the next day. However, we got a call from a friend who was moving into her new downtown apartment and needed some help transferring her IKEA purchases from the car to her second floor apartment. Much to my delight and to Gearoid’s chagrin, the kermis was in town! A kermis is the Dutch equivalent of a fair or carnival.

As a child I always loved the fair or a good carnival. As I’ve gotten older, I’ve realized that some of the charms and magic I appreciated as a child are nonexistent with my adult eyes. There are some things though that no matter what age I am, I will always appreciate. The key is to visit the fair on a warm but not too hot summer or fall evening right when the sun is setting. The bright lights get brighter and the dinginess decreases. I tap my foot and refrain from actually “busting a move” to the loud music that alternates between bad club music and a trashy pop song that I actually recognize. I love the screams of the brave ones who willingly strap themselves into a metal box to be tossed in the air or spun in a circle at obscene speeds. The best part is walking by one of those dizzyingly frighteningly rides and feeling a warm whoosh of air sweep across you as you smile at their self- induced fear. 

I was most tempted to ride this death defying ride.

Yes, there are people up there.

Loved the Indiana Jones theme music that played!

I’m always attracted to the games with their expensive $0.50 worth prizes and the people who spend $23 to win one. The act of someone trying to win a prize for a loved one or at least someone they may eventually love is as romantic to me as the night time trip on the Ferris wheel. Both children and adults get excited by the glorious food that is often only served at these special events. Cotton candy bigger than your head, popcorn, roasted nuts, ice cream and an assortment of fried foods line the midway in stands that you avoid observing too closely.  The Dutch aren’t as inventive at the foods they fry (maybe because they’re more health conscious?) and instead make sure that the kermis has typical Dutch fare such as delicious broodjes (sandwiches), olieballen (“donuts”), and smoked eel (yum?).  I shouldn’t mock the smoked eel when deep fried butter on a stick is a new food at the fair in the States.

Olieballen- This stand smelled delicious!

Old fashioned candy

 I’m also used to fairs and carnivals taking place in giant empty fields or parking lots (in more urban settings). Being such a tiny country limits the placement of giant rides and fried food stands in the Netherlands. Plus, most parking lots are underground and fields are being used for farming. The Dutch are really ingenious about how they utilize their limited space. So instead of being in a wide open space the kermis in Nijmegen lined side roads, was placed in corners out of the way, took over outdoor café and market spaces, and edged along the river. In a word it was everywhere. Poor Gearoid promised me a quick look at the kermis but every time we turned a corner there were more bright lights and loud noises beckoning me. Although the Ferris wheel along the riverfront was pretty spectacular, I was more impressed by the clever pony rides that took place on a road behind the library.

As a compromise, we didn’t go on any rides or buy any heart stopping (in the bad way) food but we did walk around for about an hour which for Gearoid’s shaky legs was a big deal. He avoided actually participating and I got a walk down memory lane in a new way.

 

Yes, that is a little girl in a hamster ball. It was funny until she splashed me.