I honestly never heard of German Christmas markets until I moved to the Netherlands but apparently they’re pretty famous. Living so close to the border, we decided to visit the nearest Christmas market to see what all the fuss was about. We boarded the only bus heading to the town of Kleve and made the 45 minute trip across the border to the Christmas Market. We arrived just after sunset which made the lights in the park really sparkle.
Within minutes of walking into the park we insulted one of the German vendors. Gearoid and I have been looking for scented candles to make the house smell “like Christmas,” ( surprisingly this was Gearoid’s idea). The vendor had candles but we quickly saw that they were for just for decoration. When I stated this aloud- forgetting that just because we were in a foreign country doesn’t mean that people don’t understand English- the burly German man bristled at my implication that his candles were less than adequate. I explained that they were beautiful but we were looking for scented candles. Gearoid added, “you know with a smell.” The response was an angry “I know what scented means!” Luckily another shopper came by saving us from making another faux pas and from buying candles we weren’t interested in.
We quickly moved on and examined each and every one of the 25 stalls. Most were crafts that although were nice to look at were not actually something we would purchase. There was homemade soap, wooden carvings, beaded jewelry, knitwear, and more. A stage with a nativity scene was set up and a tall skinny Sinterklaas was being ogled by small children. Smells of warm fried food and spiced wine filled the cold air. People balanced giant worsts (German sausages) on tiny pieces of bread. Then we were done. We had only been there for 15 minutes. Maybe Gearoid and I look at things too quickly but mostly it was just a small Christmas market.
We looped ourselves around again (avoiding the vendor we inadvertently insulted) and treated ourselves to some gluhwein (spiced mulled wine) while standing under a portable heater. We picked a good time for libations because a schlager *singer took the stage and sang to us while some children and Sinterklaas pantomimed something behind him. After our wine we each got a cone of fresh cinnamon roasted nuts and headed to the city center to explore Kleve. It only took 25 minutes to visit the Christmas market but the next bus to Nijmegen wasn’t for another 2 hours.
Window display in Kleve
Kleve's church tower
This is a statue of a woman and children trying to prevent her husband from being taken by a swan. He was the Swan Knight.
Downtown Kleve
The next weekend, a colleague of Gearoid’s invited me to another Christmas market in Kleve. I debated going until I found out it was in a castle! About a 10 minute ride outside of the Kleve city center is what is known as Swan Castle. We took the same bus as the week before from Nijmegen to Kleve and then met a German friend. She gave us a more knowledgeable tour of Kleve than the self-tour Gearoid and I had done the week before. Our tour of Kleve was a little longer than expected and we had to run to the coach that was taking people from the city center to the castle.
The Christmas market at the castle was a much better cultural experience than the one that took place in a park in Kleve. There were over 90 stalls and a much better food selection. There was also what felt like thousands of people. You could hardly move without bumping into someone and it was near impossible to get close to some of the stalls to see what wares were being sold. The actual market took place in a big ring around the castle. Our plan was to do the ring, visit the castle, and then sample some of the amazing food. When we first walked into the market we were treated to the smell of fresh crepes being made and saw these giant German dumpling-like things smothered in white sauce. It was very difficult to hold out but we didn’t want to fill up and see something more delicious along the way.
Those lights are the vendors' stalls in the gardens surrounding the castle.
When we actually got close enough to the stalls we were able to admire the beautiful crafts, paper goods, artwork, knitwear, and more. We were also able to be shocked by the prices. After admiring a purse and then seeing the price tag of over 100 Euros I was reminded that I would just be a spectator at this event. I did end up purchasing a bag of dried apples. The vendor had a good marketing strategy of selling them in clear bags. For over an hour before we even got to his stall, I saw all of these people with bags of red and yellow crispy dried apples. I wanted some by the time I got to his stall. We meandered, nibbled on a couple of treats, and waited patiently while we made our own separate purchases. By the time we got to the castle I noticed that it was closing and we wouldn’t be able to go inside.
There is a tiny orchard-like part in the garden and the tiny trees were festooned with lights.
I love the silhouette of the statue in front of the castle
These lights were surrounded by fire pits that served as heaters while you drank gluhwein. Unfortunately, you had to tiptoe through mud to get to the warmth.
These were heaters as well surrounded by an artist's very interesting garden art.
The late hour shocked my friend. She informed me that we had to be back in Kleve by 7:08 to get the bus home. The next bus after that wasn’t until after 9PM meaning we wouldn’t get home until after 10. Our German friend informed us that the next coach from the castle left for Kleve at 6:05. The one after that didn’t leave until 6:45. It was 6PM. So we ran. We slipped in mud and went through blocked off gates. At one point we crouched and hid behind a police vehicle so we wouldn’t be caught by the adjacent police for being somewhere we weren’t allowed to be in the first place. We missed the 6:05. We got on the 6:45 bus and anxiously thrummed our fingers on the seat fronts while a mother let her toddler wobble slowly by himself up the bus steps and at scheduled bus stops that took ages while elderly people made their way carefully off the bus. We considered the alternative if we missed the earlier bus- hitchhiking. My friend and I looked nervously at each other and I remembered horror films in which hitchhikers were always brutalized by the kind drivers who picked them up. Most of these movies took place in Germany. My friend said she doubted our fighting off abilities and I told her that after seeing how we ran today that I doubted our running away abilities. We gritted our teeth and silently urged the driver to drive faster.
Lucky for bad habits- the bus driver of the early bus was smoking a cigarette when the coach pulled into the station. We breathed a sigh of relief, said goodbye to our German friend, and bee lined to the bus. We took another deep breath and I remembered that I didn’t get to try the giant German dumpling thing. I was too relieved to care though and no dumpling is worth the imaginary horrors I envisioned while potentially hitchhiking.
*Schlager is honestly one of Gearoid’s favorite things about living here. There is a special TV channel dedicated to German schlager and most nights before going to bed, Gearoid watches it for a chuckle. Maybe it’s all the men with mullets and colorful sweaters staring longingly at the mountains in the distance while singing in German that cracks him up. Whatever it is I find his amusement and constant interruptions to turn it to the Schlager channel amusing myself (and borderline annoying).