We’ve been in the Netherlands for almost 5 months now and I am now fully realizing a mistake I’ve been making almost the entire time. I am not in Africa! I am in a fully developed country/society. Just because I don’t speak the native language and things can be different from the States, doesn’t mean this is anything like Africa. My mistake is that I keep comparing the Netherlands to Sierra Leone (Salone). I’ve done a lot of travelling and spent brief periods of time studying/working/volunteering in other countries. However, Sierra Leone and the Netherlands are the only two foreign countries that I have lived for extended periods of time. It’s only natural that I compare them. Although, I’m finding that my survival mechanisms from Sierra Leone are not necessary here.
I think part of the problem is that I’m finding experiences that I had in Sierra Leone here in the Netherlands. Less than a block from my house is an African shop where I can buy all of the cassava leaf, okra, hot peppers, potato leaves and other food found at the marketplace in Makeni that I want. I make almost as many African dishes for dinner here as I did there. Also, the Dutch people that I knew at the hospital I worked at in sweet Salone, live in the Netherlands! Surprise, surprise- Dutch people in the Netherlands. I guess the surprise is not that they live here but that I live here now and have an opportunity to see them again.
At the same time, it’s almost absurd that I compare the two places. I always have running water, electricity, internet, entertainment, comforts, luxuries, and the modern world at my fingertips. However, my brain always skips to Africa when something different from home comes up.
Examples
1) Heat- The heat in the Netherlands is nothing like the oppressive oven that is Sierra Leone. Only in December and January are you likely to feel a refreshing breeze in Salone. The weather here is pretty mild. There are four beautiful seasons without going to the extreme. In the winter, it will be cold and you may get some snow but not so much that schools and businesses are closed for weeks at a time due to lack of resources. Summer is warm but comfortably so. Of course, this is all based on what people have told me as I haven’t been here a full year. However, global warming is affecting the Netherlands as well and a month ago in spring we had extreme summer weather. The flowers that were slowly waking up all popped open and sagged in the heat. For two weeks there was no respite from the heat-no rain and no air conditioning. I had flashbacks of Salone, the worst time being at night. Gearoid and I would lie on the bed stripped to our underwear (sorry family for the visual imagine) without any blankets or top sheets. We lay just so we wouldn’t risk touching each other or ourselves with our sticky humid skin. It was just like Salone but not. It took two days before it even crossed our minds to set up a fan facing the bed because there is ELECTRICITY in the Netherlands!
2) Rain- The weather and the seasons are mild but there is a lot of rain. When I first moved here, I wasn’t able to email any pictures because there was so much rain. Even today as I write this, there are gray skies and rain is drizzling down. In Salone, when it rains people stay inside and wait for it to pass. People are late to work and school- if they even attempt to go out- because of the rain. I kind of miss that mentality and when I see the downpours outside of my giant windows I have to push Salone aside and accept the fact that I’m going to get wet and cold as I cycle to class and arrive on time. The rain doesn’t stop people here. Another American in town I know was enjoying a rainy day inside and happened to look out her window when another downpour began to see a Dutch girl hop off her bike, pull her rain gear out of her saddlebags, slip the pants and jacket over her clothes, and ride off into the rain in a span of 30 seconds. One day I hope to be as functional in the rain on my bike rather than resort to my learned Salonean instinct of staying in when it’s raining.
3) Cheese- Gearoid and I are lovers of cheese. As our relationship has gone on this shared passion has grown. Although he prefers the super stinky moldy kind and I prefer the soft goat kind, we both agree that we enjoy all the kinds of cheese in between. When in Salone, we were limited to Laughing Cow original that doesn’t need to be refrigerated. Occasionally, when we visited Freetown, a place with refrigeration, we would splurge and pick up some cheese before going home to Makeni. Once home, we would have a feast. Because of our lack of fridge we would have to consume all of the cheese in one go. We would make multiple cheese sandwiches- cold and hot- or just eat it straight from its cellophane wrapper. Only once did we invite friends over to share in this feast and it was when we knew we only had a month left in the country and would soon have all the cheese we wanted in appropriate quantities. We would go to bed beyond satisfied feeling bloated and salty and sleep off our cheese hangovers. It was disgusting but desperate times call for desperate measures. Being in the Netherlands, we’ve had to fight the urge to consume terrific amounts of cheese in one go. At first we were satiated with the ever-present Gouda. We received as a welcome gift a kilo of cheese and it only lasted a week. The next kilo was luckier and lasted 2 weeks. However, the presence of Gouda everywhere has made us miss cheddar, mozzarella, and feta- cheeses that are more present in the States. We “treat” ourselves to a block of feta for Greek inspired salads and act as if it is a precious fossil fuel that will run out eventually. We’re ridiculous. The grocery store is two blocks away and has feta, mozzarella, cheddar, gouda, and more. There is a cheese store 12 minutes away by bike that has the stinky moldy kind and the soft goat kind. We’re not in Africa! Cheese is everywhere here!
4) Food Homesickness- Often a Friday night would find us at Ibrahim’s in Makeni sitting at plastic lawn furniture, risking ours elves to malarial mosquitoes, and discussing food we missed from home over hummus, soggy fries, and Star beers. In the moment it wasn’t the best of times but looking back I miss our group of expats and the fun we found together. We would discuss broccoli and cauliflower, tortillas, ice cream, cakes, grapes, berries, and more. Occasionally apples would make it to town and we would pay an exorbitant price for one apple and receive with it an onslaught of other memories of food from home. To battle the food homesickness we would come up with inventive ways to treat ourselves and each other occasionally. Our house managed to make versions of pasta with blush sauce, French toast, and garlic bread. Our friends managed pancakes, pizza, pasta salad, pumpkin pie, and on someone’s birthday fondue was made from a crazy amount of Laughing Cow. A couple of months ago, I found myself trying to recreate these reminiscent conversations. Gearoid and I met an American couple who live in Nijmegen at a café in town. Eventually the conversation came around to things we miss from home and a little bit into the conversation I started to describe this dark moist bread that Gearoid and I had discovered at the grocery store. I even nicknamed it “brownie” bread because it looks and feels like a brownie but tastes like bread. I described as if we were living in a place with limited food options and we had found this rare deliciousness. Gearoid gave me a look and reminder that WE’RE NOT IN AFRICA! There are all kinds of food here and many of them are similar to home. I looked around the café with its candles lit for atmosphere rather than to prevent malarial mosquito bites and reminded myself again that I’m not in Africa and I am capable of talking about other things than bread I found at the grocery store.
So now that I’ve realized this mistake I have been guilty of, hopefully I will stop starting sentences with “when I was Africa” as a comparison to something in the Netherlands. I also hope to eat cheese in healthy quantities again.
Making Laughing Cow Fondue In Salone
Cheese Shop in Nijmegen
Market in Nijmegen
Market in Sierra Leone